By V. E. K. Madhushani, Jadetimes News
A Controversial Call to Explore Afghanistan's Landscapes and Culture
When planning a holiday, Afghanistan is rarely at the top of most travelers' lists. Decades of conflict have deterred tourists since the country's heyday as part of the hippie trail in the 1970s. The Taliban's return to power in 2021 further cast uncertainty on the tourism industry's future.
However, a quick scroll through social media suggests that tourism in Afghanistan has not only survived but has boomed in an extraordinarily niche way. Influencers enthusiastically promote the country's glistening lakes, mountainous passes, and bustling markets, declaring Afghanistan safer than it has been in 20 years.
Despite these optimistic claims, questions arise about the risks these travelers are taking and who truly benefits from this burgeoning industry, a population struggling to survive or a regime keen to shift the narrative in its favor.
“It is very ironic to see those videos on TikTok where there is a Taliban guide and Taliban official giving tickets to tourists to visit the [site of the] destruction of the Buddhas,” points out Dr. Farkhondeh Akbari, whose family fled Afghanistan during the first Taliban regime in the 1990s. “These are the people who destroyed the Buddhas.”
The Allure of Uncharted Destinations
Sascha Heeney’s travel destinations do not sound like ideal holiday spots to most people. Yet, it is precisely this off the beaten path appeal that draws her and thousands like her from across the globe. Places far removed from five star resorts offer a unique allure. Afghanistan, with its raw and unfiltered charm, fits this criterion perfectly.
“It is just raw,” says Heeney, a part time travel guide from Brighton, UK. “You don’t get much rawer than there. That can be attractive if you want to see real life.”
The Taliban's Stake in Tourism
Despite their reputation for being hostile toward outsiders, especially Westerners, the Taliban now appear alongside tourists, guns on display, posing for potentially viral TikTok videos (banned in the country since 2022). The simple reason, money. Isolated internationally and under widespread sanctions, the Taliban need funds, and tourists bring it.
According to the AP news agency, tourist numbers have increased from just 691 in 2021 to over 7,000 last year. Many tourists join international tours costing a few thousand dollars for a glimpse of the "real Afghanistan."
Mohammad Saeed, head of the Taliban government's Tourism Directorate in Kabul, dreams of Afghanistan becoming a tourist hotspot, particularly eyeing the Chinese market with the backing “of the Elders.”
“All they want to do [with tourism], it’s good,” says Afghan tour guide Rohullah, who has seen an increase in job opportunities since the Taliban’s rise to power. Before becoming a guide, Rohullah worked for the Afghan finance ministry. He now finds himself in high demand, leading groups eager to explore Afghanistan’s landscapes and culture.
The Reality of Security and Risks
The killing of three Spanish tourists and an Afghan at a market in Bamiyan by the Islamic State affiliated ISK militant group in May was notable for targeting foreigners. The British Foreign Office advises against all travel to Afghanistan due to ongoing risks, including the 45 attacks carried out by ISK in 2023 alone.
Ironically, much of Afghanistan's current security is due to the Taliban's own reduction in violence, as they were responsible for a significant portion of civilian casualties during the 20 year war. In early 2021, the UN attributed over 40% of the 1,783 civilian casualties to the Taliban, with US led Afghan government forces responsible for 25%.
Navigating Gender Dynamics
Surprisingly, Heeney and two other women in her group found that being female tourists did not preclude them from visiting Afghanistan. Young Pioneer Tours even runs exclusively female trips to the country. Rohullah has guided female solo travelers without issues, although female tourists and locals have different encounters due to the Taliban’s strict rules for women.
Women in Afghanistan face severe restrictions, but tourists, guided by briefings on dress codes and behavior, manage to navigate these challenges. The Taliban, often present and watching, do not interact with female tourists, who must learn to adhere to the rules.
Heeney, who had the opportunity to speak with local women, found them incredibly happy to have visitors. These interactions, often missing from social media videos, provided deeper insights into Afghan life.
The Ethics of Tourism in Afghanistan
Watching slick videos of Afghanistan from abroad, some feel a sense of discomfort. Dr. Akbari, now a postdoctoral researcher at Monash University in Australia, criticizes the lack of political and social awareness among some tourists, arguing that it allows the Taliban to gloss over the harsh realities of life under their rule.
While Heeney acknowledges a moral struggle over the Taliban’s treatment of women, she believes in the value of experiencing a country firsthand and making personal judgments. Rowan Beard, who has brought groups to Afghanistan since 2016, advocates for letting people form their own conclusions rather than adhering to a single narrative.
Marina Novelli, professor of marketing and tourism at Nottingham University School of Business, warns against sensationalizing a destination and advocates for responsible tourism that acknowledges existing problems. Boycotting, she argues, isolates these countries further, and tourism can potentially foster peace and cross cultural exchange.
However, for women like Dr. Akbari, the normalization of the Taliban regime through tourism is deeply troubling. “Our pains and our sufferings are being whitewashed, brushed with these fake strokes of security the Taliban want.”
The debate over tourism in Afghanistan under the Taliban is complex. While it offers economic opportunities and potential for cultural exchange, it also risks glossing over the harsh realities faced by the Afghan people. Travelers must weigh the ethical implications of their visits and consider the broader impact on a nation still grappling with the consequences of decades of conflict.
