By D.W.G. Kalani Tharanga, JadeTimes News
This week, Calvin Klein announced the appointment of Veronica Leoni as the new creative director for its mainline collection. The high end line, which was paused in 2018 following Raf Simons' abrupt departure, is being revived by parent company PVH. This move reflects PVH's intention to balance Leoni’s artistic vision with its commodity focused business model, as it rekindles the high end line after a two-decade hiatus since Calvin Klein sold his label to the group.
Calvin Klein, a master of iconography and a legendary name in American fashion, transformed everyday items like underwear and jeans into globally desirable commodities. Known for his marketing genius and impeccable taste, Klein reduced fashion to its purest form, focusing on function and beauty. His Madison Avenue store, designed by minimalist architect John Pawson, epitomized his retail vision. Klein's name and CK initials continue to be synonymous with cultural products that boast global sex appeal.
Embracing 'Quiet Luxury', Leoni's Vision for Calvin Klein’s High End Revival
Veronica Leoni, with an impressive background at The Row, Jil Sander, and Celine, is no stranger to the concept of 'quiet luxury,' a minimalist fashion trend that Calvin Klein pioneered in the '90s. However, this market is now saturated, with brands from Cos to Loro Piana embracing the aesthetic. PVH aims to avoid the pitfalls of the Simons era, whose radical vision diverged too much from the brand’s core.
Leoni’s first mainline collection is set to launch in 2025, necessitating a transformation of Calvin Klein’s retail portfolio to cater to high end fashion. Key questions remain about production and retail strategy, Will the collection be manufactured in prestigious Italian factories or the Far East? Will runway collections be sold alongside CK jeans or in separate stores, requiring significant retail investment? PVH’s success with Calvin Klein’s mainline remains to be seen, given its revenue driven focus and the different customer base for luxury fashion.
Despite recent marketing successes, such as the current Pride campaign and last year’s Jeremy Allen White ads boosting underwear sales by 30 percent, the relaunch of Calvin Klein’s mainline may not quickly drive top line revenue. PVH faces the challenge of appealing to high end fashion buyers who typically do not shop from its portfolio brands. The journey to re establish Calvin Klein’s mainline as a luxury brand will be closely watched by the fashion industry.
