By C. J. De Mel, Jadetimes News
The severe drought caused by climate change in Catalonia has unveiled unexpected wonders, including an 18th century cannonball factory. Walking through a long valley in this region now feels both ancient and post apocalyptic. Rising from the cracked, dry earth are the remains of several stone buildings, notably two central rectangular structures totaling around 30 meters in length. Roofless and crumbling, these buildings are surrounded by piles of rubble resembling rocky dunes. Where windows once existed, vacancies now frame views of the pale blue sky streaked with wispy clouds and the harsh spring sun. This unlikely sight is a remarkable testament to history.
Built in 1771 in the Sant Sebastià neighborhood of Sant Llorenç de la Muga, this collection of buildings, alongside the outlines of their foundations, was once the Royal Foundry of Sant Sebastià of the Muga. This year marks the first time in over half a century that visitors can access these ruins, previously submerged under the Darnius Boadella reservoir since 1969. The reservoir, typically supplying water to Figueres and surrounding towns and aiding in local agriculture and hydroelectric power generation, dropped to its lowest level ever due to a severe drought beginning in 2021.
Local historian Marià Baig, who has extensively studied the foundry, explains that the Royal Foundry of Sant Sebastià of the Muga was Catalonia's first charcoal blast furnace, chosen for its proximity to essential resources: wood for charcoal, water to power the hydraulic bellows, and iron ore from nearby mines. The foundry produced munitions until its destruction by the French army during the War of the Pyrenees around 1794 and was never rebuilt.
Despite locals being aware of the submerged buildings, their re-emergence was a spectacle. Many people, including Baig, visited the site for the first time, finding it larger than expected. The valley, once the reservoir’s basin, now appears desolate, with a slender stream meandering through dried mud and browning grasses. A beached and broken paddleboat lies near the shoreline, a stark reminder of the reservoir’s past vibrancy.
The reservoir, once containing 60 cubic hectometres of water enough to fill approximately 24,000 Olympic size swimming pools was reduced to a mere 11% capacity by March 2024. According to Carlos Barbero Lartigau of the Catalan Water Agency, the region has faced severe drought conditions due to climate change, with glaring signs such as unwatered lawns, unwashed cars, and restaurants serving only bottled water.
Despite the devastation, the out of time tableau revealed by the drought provided a unique opportunity to visit the once submerged cannonball factory. Visitors, including children, explored the foundry's empty rooms and played around the ruins. The blast furnace remains buried in the muck, with hopes for future excavation and study.
After a lunch on giant stone blocks, the group visited Sant Sebastiá, a small stone chapel erected in 1609, also revealed by the receding waters. The chapel's narrow nave and cubby like apse, despite their ruinous state, emanated a calming spirituality.
The Darnius Boadella reservoir is not the only one revealing historical structures. The drought has also unveiled the Romanesque church of Sant Romà de Sau and the Sant Salvador de la Vedella monastery in other Catalonia reservoirs. Recent rainfall has slightly improved conditions at Darnius Boadella, raising the water level to roughly 23% of its capacity. However, water rationing continues, and the foundry, chapel, and other buildings remain accessible only by boat, with excursions arranged by the nearby Darnius Nautical Club.
As visitors leave the reservoir, the sight of the foundry and chapel, testaments to time's brutality and present hardships, lingers. One can imagine these structures being hidden beneath the surface once more, locked away from curious souls, perhaps forever.
