By I. Hansana, Jadetimes News
Chanel Navigates a Transition, Haute Couture Show Held After Virginie Viard's Departure
Chanel held its haute couture show on Tuesday, three weeks following the abrupt departure of creative director Virginie Viard, who had been with the brand for nearly 30 years. Viard, who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld after his death in 2019, oversaw record sales of nearly $20 billion last year. However, murmurs of dissatisfaction had been growing, with critiques that her shows were becoming repetitive, culminating in her unceremonious exit in early June.
Viard, 62, did not receive a farewell mention during the show. The latest collection, credited to the 150 artisans of Chanel's Rue Cambon workshop, was showcased at the Opera Garnier. It featured a sophisticated array of medieval capes, evening dresses with puffed sleeves, matador outfits, and a velvet tuxedo alongside the house’s classic tweeds, with a nod to Lagerfeld’s signature vinyl.
Doubts about Viard’s future emerged in May after a mid season "cruise" show in Marseille failed to impress, partly due to unseasonably cold weather. Online critics lambasted the show, complaining about the cuts, fabrics, and shoes. Her departure was announced discreetly to the press in the middle of the night a month later.
Paris based designer Lutz Huelle expressed sympathy for Viard, acknowledging the difficulty of replacing Lagerfeld at Chanel, the world’s largest luxury brand. He emphasized her significant role during her tenure alongside Lagerfeld, noting that her continued presence implied her competence.
Viard’s tenure was seen as a stopgap measure, making her only the third creative director in Chanel's 114 year history. Known for her understated style, she contrasted sharply with Lagerfeld’s flamboyant persona. Despite critiques of her work, Chanel’s sales flourished under her leadership, rising 14.6% to $19.7 billion last year, with ready to wear sales increasing by 23% over five years. This success highlighted Chanel’s strength as a brand independent of its creative director, according to Business of Fashion.
Speculation now turns to Viard’s successor, with names such as Hedi Slimane (Celine), Marine Serre, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Pierpaolo Piccioli (formerly of Valentino), and Sarah Burton (renowned for designing Princess Catherine’s wedding dress) circulating as potential candidates.