By T. Jayani, JadeTimes News
Frilly, hyper feminine, and adorned with bows, the coquette style is gaining popularity. But is this aesthetic a problematic trend or an empowering form of expression? In 2024, the coquette influence is everywhere from makeup to dogs to interior design. Bows, lace, and pastels, reminiscent of Sofia Coppola films like Marie Antoinette and Priscilla, are ubiquitous. Musicians such as Sabrina Carpenter and Chappell Roan embrace this style on stage, while celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker, Sydney Sweeney, and Cardi B incorporate simple bows into their outfits.
The coquette style has evolved from a micro trend to a community, sparking debates on its implications. Traditionally, a "coquette" refers to a flirtatious woman. However, according to influencer and stylist Maree Ellard, the modern coquette movement reclaims femininity, particularly for Gen Z.
Ellard explains, “People might think coquette means dressing flirtatiously for attention, but within the community, it’s about hyper feminized nostalgia for girlhood before things became complex.” She notes the current political climate, where the sexualization of female bodies is prominent, makes this trend a form of resistance. Gen Z, she says, is declaring, “I’m dressing for me.”
Proponents view coquette as a rebellion against the male gaze and a celebration of femininity, while critics argue it lacks inclusivity and promotes infantilization. Meredith Jones, a professor of Gender and Cultural Studies, highlights that trends like coquette often exclude diverse body types and identities, favoring thin, cisgendered, white women. This exclusion makes it more challenging and radical for others to adopt the style.
Influencers also express concerns about the trend’s darker side. TikToker Addy Harajuku and others have observed that the coquette aesthetic sometimes overlaps with harmful online communities promoting disordered eating. Despite this, they emphasize that such issues are the fault of a vocal minority, not the majority who enjoy the style.
Coquette’s historical associations add to the controversy. Maree Ellard points out that the style’s origins on platforms like Tumblr involved both a romanticized view of girlhood and problematic elements, such as the glorification of age gaps and the novel Lolita. Critics like Iustina Roman argue that while the aesthetic can seem to cater to the male gaze, the oversexualization of women drives this trend’s subversive attempt to reclaim innocence and femininity.
Defenders of coquette argue that it’s an umbrella term encompassing various subcultures. Unlike linear fashion evolutions like punk or emo, coquette is unique and adaptable. It’s a nostalgic return to girly, youthful fashion, easily hybridized with other interests.
Brands like Sandy Liang, Miu Miu, and Selkie have long embraced coquette like elements, and designers such as John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood have incorporated similar styles. Amy de la Haye, a professor of Dress History, notes that elements of coquette fashion have historical precedents, like neck chokers from different eras.
Professor Jones believes that the meanings behind ultra feminine modes like coquette have remained consistent for centuries. The simplicity and adaptability of the style contribute to its longevity and appeal. According to Ellard, coquette should have no strict rules or specific brands, allowing for personal customization and experimentation.
The coquette aesthetic has influenced various sub trends, from “dollette” and “cottagecore” to the hybrid “bloquette.” Participants tailor the style to their preferences, influenced by popular culture, films, and shows like Bridgerton and Euphoria. Ellard predicts that coquette will continue evolving and remain popular for a long time.
While coquette doesn’t have the political origins of movements like punk, it brings a sense of belonging through shared interests and activities. Ellard sees it as a turning point in aesthetics, offering substance and community despite not being rooted in political values.
