By C. J. De Mel, Jadetimes News
Ancient Conservation Practices in Tahiti
The Islands of Tahiti have preserved their maritime spaces and species through the ancient conservation custom of rāhui, including creating a seasonal refuge for humpback whales. With more than 2,000km of Pacific Ocean separating the 118 islands and five archipelagos of French Polynesia, the allure of overwater bungalows, palm fringed beaches, and aquamarine lagoons draws many travelers. However, some journey to this South Pacific paradise for a unique reason: to swim with humpback whales.
"I have great respect for the whales because they are part of us here in Tahiti," says Patea Alexandre, a resident of Moorea, a prime destination for swimming with these gentle giants. "But the ocean is not Disneyland, and being in the water with them is a privilege."
Whale Tourism in Moorea
Alexandre, who has been driving whale tour boats professionally since 1998, founded Moorea Blue Water a decade later. His small group excursions are usually booked by word of mouth. Describing a humpback whale encounter, he says, "The moment of eye contact is unforgettable. One minute the water is filled with nothing but light rays, then suddenly a silhouette appears from the deep blue, ascending gracefully toward you. Swimming with whales is not just an adventure; it's a profound encounter that stays with you forever."
Conservation and Regulation
Whale populations, once devastated by commercial whaling, have made a remarkable comeback. Whale watching tourism now generates more than $2 billion annually worldwide. Although most whale watching operations recognize the need to protect whales, illegal operators in some areas disrupt whale behaviors by taking tourists too close. This can stress the whales and reduce population numbers.
In contrast, French Polynesia protects all cetaceans (whales, dolphins, and porpoises) through a public ordinance. Recently, Indigenous leaders of Tahiti, the Cook Islands, and New Zealand signed a treaty recognizing whales as legal persons, affording them even greater protection.
Ethical Whale Swim Tourism
For adventurous travelers, swim with whale tourism is a growing niche market, with French Polynesia being one of the few places where it's possible. Other countries, like Tonga, Australia, and the Dominican Republic, also permit these encounters, but French Polynesia has some of the strictest regulations. Boats must stay 100m away, swimmers 30m, and interactions are limited to minimize stress on the whales.
In Tonga, swimmers can approach whales up to 5m, and boats up to 10m, distances many experts believe are too close for the whale's well being and swimmer safety. "Being able to offer this once in a lifetime experience is exceptional, but we do so with the utmost respect for the whales and their sanctuary here," says Vaihere Lissant, chief marketing officer at Tahiti Tourisme.
Proposed New Guidelines
French Polynesia plans to implement new guidelines in 2025 to make encounters even more wildlife friendly by reducing the number of swimmers per boat. Captains like Patea welcome these changes, limiting group sizes to four swimmers. "The new regulations are a logical development where pressure on the whales is the strongest, but on other islands, locals have always kept their distance out of respect," he says.
Whale Season in Tahiti
Whale season in Tahiti starts in July when humpback whales migrate more than 6,000km from Antarctica to rest, breed, and rear their young in warm tropical waters. Swim with tours are permitted from 1 August through 11 November. While most book with operators on Tahiti Nui and Moorea, Rurutu, known as "whale island," in the remote Austral Archipelago, is considered the mecca for these adventures.
The Spiritual Connection and Rāhui Tradition
Famous for their haunting songs and dramatic breaches, humpback whales are often the stars of the whale watching world. Being in the presence of a 40 ton humpback and her calf is an otherworldly experience that advocates for marine conservation. Conservation and preservation are central to the Polynesian way of life, part of Mana, the spiritual force connecting all living things.
Rāhui, a tradition involving temporary "no take" restrictions, allows ecosystems to regenerate. "Rāhui is a form of sustainable community resource management," explains Dr. Hervé Ra'imana Lallemant Moe. In 1996, French Polynesia banned industrial fishing within its Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ), and in 2002, created the world's largest marine mammal sanctuary.
Historical and Cultural Significance
Twenty four species of whales and dolphins call the sanctuary home, including approximately 3,200 humpback whales. Marine biologist Dr. Michael Poole's research in 1987 revealed French Polynesia as a breeding ground for an unknown population of humpback whales. Poole, a staunch advocate for whale protection, spent a decade garnering support for the sanctuary, establishing cetacean rest areas and whale watching tours.
Education and Advocacy
Encountering humpback whales with respected guides like Poole and Patea offers a fantastic way to learn about these long distance travelers. Their migrations are among the longest of any mammal, and their songs are some of the most complex vocalizations in the animal kingdom. These encounters also highlight the whale’s significance in Polynesian culture and why they return to Tahiti each austral winter.
"The return of these mythical beings in the waters of Te Moana Nui a Hīvā during the season of Matāri'i I raro signals the entry into a time of maturity of products from land and sea, wisdom, and access to great knowledge," writes Hiriata Millaud. This journey is a promising omen of happiness and joy to come.