By C. J. De Mel, Jadetimes News
Angel Island, the largest natural island in San Francisco Bay, once served as a quarantine and military station, processing as many as one million immigrants. Today, it stands as one of the Bay Area's most picturesque urban getaways. The island's 5.5 mile paved Perimeter Loop offers cyclists breathtaking views at every turn, including the iconic Golden Gate Bridge and the infamous Alcatraz Island.
Despite its rich history and scenic beauty, Angel Island is often overlooked compared to other Bay Area attractions such as Sonoma County's wineries, the waterfront city of Sausalito, and San Francisco's eclectic neighborhoods. This is surprising, given the island's historical significance and natural charm. Once home to the Indigenous Coast Miwok people, the island has seen many lives from a military base and major immigration center to a Japanese internment station.
A Saturday afternoon tour of Angel Island by bike revealed the island's diverse history. The journey began with a ferry ride from Tiburon, docking at Ayala Cove. Named after Spanish naval officer Juan Manuel de Ayala, who first sailed into San Francisco Bay in 1775, the cove became a quarantine station in 1891. Today, it serves as the main arrival point and houses a café and bicycle rental facilities.
Cycling up to the Perimeter Loop, visitors encounter a mix of native oak and bay trees alongside introduced species like Monterey pine and eucalyptus. The island's historical remnants are scattered along the route, including ruins from its military past and immigration station. The Coast Miwok used the island for fishing, hunting, and foraging long before it became a strategic military reserve in 1850. The island's east side features the ruins of Camp Reynolds, home to the nation's oldest standing group of US Civil War buildings from the 1860s.
In 1905, part of Angel Island was transformed into an immigration station, processing up to one million immigrants between 1910 and 1940. This station, often called the "Ellis Island of the West," was crucial for Asian immigrants, who faced harsh conditions due to discriminatory laws like the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882. The island also played a role during World War II, serving as a processing center for prisoners of war and a temporary internment center for Japanese Americans.
Today, the former immigration and internment center houses a museum highlighting the island's history, including Chinese poetry etched into the detention barracks' walls. Informational signs along the Perimeter Loop provide further insights into Angel Island's past. Visitors can enjoy the island's natural beauty without the interference of the Bay Area's notorious fog, which often gives way to clear blue skies and sweeping views of the San Francisco skyline.
One notable stop along the route is Battery Ledyard, offering stunning views of the Golden Gate Strait and the San Francisco skyline. The island's picnic areas and occasional open air trams add to its appeal as a leisurely getaway. Camping on Angel Island requires advance planning due to limited campsites, but those who secure a spot, especially at Ridge Camp, are rewarded with spectacular views.
The island's Sunset Trail is a strenuous but rewarding hike, climbing 800 feet to Mount Livermore, the island's tallest peak. Named after conservationist Caroline Livermore, the summit offers unobstructed views of San Francisco and Oakland, highlighting the island's proximity to urban areas while providing a serene escape.
Despite a close call with the last ferry, the island's accessibility and scenic routes make it a compelling destination. Angel Island's transformation from a place of quarantine and military significance to a beloved urban retreat reflects the region's evolving history and enduring natural beauty.
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