By D.W.G. Kalani Tharanga, JadeTimes News
Every spring, nearly 100,000 seabirds, including guillemots, great skuas, razorbills, and puffins, flock to Handa Island, situated just off Scotland's far north west coast.
Handa Island, though visible from many points along the far north western Scottish coast, appears deceptively close to the mainland. Only 300 meters of water separate it from the rest of the country, making it seem like a tempting swim on a sunny day, if not for the frigid waters. A 10 minute ferry from the small pier at Tarbet, a hamlet 5.5 miles by road from Scourie, transports visitors to this birdwatching paradise. As the ferry approaches the island’s eastern side, the tranquil white sand beach belies the steep, bird covered cliffs that the island is renowned for.
Breeding Season and Seabird Spectacle
Handa Island transforms into one of the largest breeding colonies in north western Europe from April to July, drawing around 100,000 seabirds. The Handa Island Wildlife Reserve map, handed out during the ranger’s introductory talk, provides guidance on dealing with Arctic skuas, which can swoop towards visitors, “Hold up your hand and move on quickly.” Fortunately, during my visit, the birds remained perched on the grass, ignoring the human presence.
Walking across the island’s heather strewn moorland, serenaded by skylarks, I was captivated by the island's serenity. The only access to the island is via a day trip, the Handa Ferry operates from early April to early September, departing from Tarbet pier. Visitors should pack a picnic and plenty of water, as there are no food or drink facilities on the island. Rangers and volunteers provide information, but exploration is mostly self guided along clear paths. For guided trips, Mackenzie Mountaineering offers excursions from Ullapool, 48 miles south of Tarbet. The prime time to visit for seabird sightings, especially puffins, is from mid May to June.
Conservation Efforts and Volunteering
At Puffin Bay on the north coast, visitors can observe the dramatic rocky cliffs of Torridonian sandstone, teeming with kittiwakes and other seabirds. A golden eagle soaring overhead added to the spectacle. However, the main attraction is the puffins. Just west of Puffin Bay lies the aptly named Great Stack, a sandstone tower hosting many of the island’s migratory birds. Despite dwindling numbers, around 80 puffins nest here each year. Ranger Libby Higgins Washbrook explained the challenges puffins face, including predation by guillemots, razorbills, and rats that swim over from the mainland.
Handa Island also hosts seasonal human residents. Rangers like Higgins Washbrook and volunteers stay on the island from March to September. Volunteers help with various tasks, including monitoring seabird populations, cleaning beaches, and maintaining boardwalks. Nicole Smith, a volunteer from Aberdeen, shared her rewarding experience of island life and conservation work.
Living communally in simple bunk accommodations, volunteers must bring enough food to last their first two weeks. The nearest shop is in Scourie, accessible via a 3.5 mile walk across rough moorland, weather permitting.
Experiencing Island Life
The island’s isolation can be challenging. During my visit, I encountered a temporary ferry suspension due to the spring tide, giving me a taste of the island's solitude. Embracing the unexpected extra time, I enjoyed watching eider ducks and digging my feet into the soft sand. The peace and quiet once visitors leave is a unique aspect of Handa life that volunteers like Smith appreciate.
Handa Island offers an immersive experience in nature, highlighting the delicate balance between wildlife conservation and the human impact on these fragile ecosystems. For those seeking a greener, more mindful approach to travel, Handa Island is a perfect destination.