By C. J. De Mel, Jadetimes News
Springtime Spectacle: Seabirds Descend on Handa Island
Every spring, nearly 100,000 seabirds, including guillemots, great skuas, razorbills, and puffins, flock to Handa Island, located off Scotland's far northwest coast. This small island transforms into one of the largest breeding colonies in northwestern Europe during the breeding season from April to July.
Location and Accessibility
Handa Island, situated close to the mainland, can be spotted from various points along Scotland's northwestern coastline. However, its proximity, just 300 meters at its closest point, makes it blend seamlessly with the mainland unless identified with a map. The island is accessible by a 10 minute ferry ride from Tarbet, a hamlet 5.5 miles from the village of Scourie.
Arrival and Initial Impressions
The ferry approaches Handa's eastern side, landing on a serene white sand beach lapped by turquoise waters. This tranquil scene belies the island's dramatic cliffs, home to thousands of seabirds. Visitors, including myself and 14 others on the ferry, are drawn by the opportunity to witness this avian spectacle.
A Seabird Haven
During the breeding season, Handa Island hosts around 100,000 seabirds. The island's wildlife reserve map, provided by the ranger, includes advice on handling encounters with swooping Arctic skuas: "Hold up your hand and move on quickly." Fortunately, my encounters with these birds were peaceful, as they remained perched on the grass, indifferent to my presence.
Exploring Handa's Moorland
Walking across the heather strewn moorland, accompanied by the skylark’s songs, I felt a profound sense of isolation from the outside world. The island's 760 acre expanse is characterized by its untouched natural beauty.
How to Visit Handa Island
Handa Island is accessible only as a day trip. The Handa Ferry operates from Tarbet pier between early April and early September, from Monday to Saturday, with departures between 09:00 and 13:30 and returns around 16:30. As there are no food or drink facilities on the island, visitors should pack a picnic and plenty of water. The visit is largely self guided, though rangers and volunteers provide information. For a more guided experience, Mackenzie Mountaineering offers trips from Ullapool, 48 miles south of Tarbet. The best time to see seabirds, especially puffins, is from mid May to June.
Discovering Puffin Bay and the Great Stack
Despite its name, Puffin Bay on the north coast is not the nesting site for puffins. Instead, the land there abruptly gives way to rocky cliffs and sea stacks teeming with kittiwakes. A golden eagle soaring overhead added to the excitement of the birdwatchers below.
The true puffin hotspot is the Great Stack, a sandstone tower just offshore, where many migratory birds nest. Early in the season, the ledges were already crowded with seabirds, and the sight of a puffin's orange feet thrilled the spectators. However, the puffin population is dwindling due to predators like guillemots, razorbills, and rats that swim over from the mainland.
Volunteering on Handa Island
Ranger Libby Higgins Washbrook and a team of volunteers manage Handa Island during the season. Volunteers, who live communally and share duties, stay for varying lengths of time and help with tasks such as monitoring seabird populations, cleaning beaches, and maintaining paths. Applications for volunteer roles open in January each year on the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s website.
Experiencing Island Life
Life on Handa can be challenging. Volunteers rely on the ferry service for supplies and can be isolated for days due to poor weather. However, the peace and solitude once visitors leave is unparalleled. The island's simplicity and natural beauty offer a rewarding experience for those who embrace it.
A Glimpse of Isolation
During my visit, the temporary suspension of the ferry service due to a spring tide offered a taste of island life’s isolation. Rather than lamenting the lost time, I immersed myself in the island's tranquility, watching eider ducks and enjoying the sandy shores.
Reluctant Departure
When the ferry finally arrived, I found myself reluctant to leave the serene and enchanting environment of Handa Island. The island's natural charm and the unique experience of its wildlife made the visit truly unforgettable.