By T. Jayani, JadeTimes News
As summer approaches, the iconic images of Jane Birkin in a ring fronted bikini or Brigitte Bardot in frilled bikini bottoms come to mind. Swimwear brands often name their designs after such legendary figures, blending vintage styles with modern elements. Notably, Hunza G, celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, designed the cut out white and blue dress Julia Roberts wore in Pretty Woman using its signature crinkle fabric.
However, like the timeless appeal of swimwear, its environmental impact is also enduring. The primary issue is plastic. Swimwear needs to be stretchy, shape retentive, and quick drying, making synthetic fibers like nylon, polyester, and elastane derived from fossil fuels the go to materials for their performance and low cost. Unfortunately, washing these synthetic products releases over half a million tonnes of microplastics into the oceans annually. Additionally, low quality bikinis from fast fashion brands have short lifespans, promoting frequent repurchasing, and swimwear recycling remains challenging, contributing to the 100 billion items of clothing produced globally, with 65% ending up in landfills within a year.
Kevin L. Jones, senior curator at ASU FIDM Museum in Los Angeles, explains that until the 1930s, bathing suits in the US and Europe were made from natural fibers like wool and even tightly woven silk. He notes that materials were highly valued and used until they were no longer functional. Only the wealthy could frequently update their wardrobes, and many made their own bathing suits. The United States Rubber Company later introduced Lastex, an elastic yarn blended with other fabrics, addressing wool's sagging issue when wet. This innovation marked the beginning of synthetic fibers like polyester and elastane, which have since dominated the market and fostered a disposable mindset.
However, the industry is gradually shifting towards more sustainable practices and materials. One such innovation is Econyl, made from recycled synthetic waste like discarded fishing nets. Brands like Stay Wild use Econyl to create swimwear collections in a small London factory. Co-founder Natalie Glaze emphasizes their slow fashion model, minimal waste through pre orders, use of deadstock, and high quality pieces designed to last longer.
Although Econyl still sheds microfibres during washing, gentle handwashing can minimize this release. Most swimwear, worn briefly, doesn't require frequent machine washing. When machine washing is necessary, using a wash bag or filter can help reduce microfibre shedding.
The second hand swimwear market is also growing. Clare Richardson, founder of pre loved online retailer Reluxe Fashion, notes an increase in preloved swimwear, suggesting customers choose items from retailers that authenticate their garments. Reluxe only accepts pieces without stains or significant wear and tear, and photographs any faults for transparency.
For many, cleanliness is a concern with second hand swimwear, but in person inspection can assure quality. Sustainability advocate Jemma Finch prefers thrift stores, which often clean and sanitize items before selling. Holly Watkins, owner of One Scoop Store in northeast London, uses soda crystals in the washing machine to remove stains and ensures all swimwear is washed before resale. She finds that up to 70% of the swimwear she sources is new with tags, offering high quality options at a fraction of the cost.
Recycling swimwear is challenging due to the blend of materials, but brands like Stay Wild are making strides. They recycle old, worn out swimwear into industrial products like carpets and aim to create a fully circular system for swimwear. After developing a new material without elastane, Stay Wild produced a prototype of a fully recyclable swimsuit.
Anne Prahl, founder of Circular Concept Lab, highlights the potential of textiles to textiles recycling for sustainable swimwear, with elastane being the major obstacle. She mentions Decathlon's efforts to replace elastane with mechanical stretch fibers and the ongoing testing of recyclability with partners. The Lycra Company's T400 fiber, which does not disrupt the recycling process, shows promise for recycling blends.
According to Jones, the sports industry has always led fashion innovation, and artificial intelligence will further influence this space, creating remarkable advancements and challenges. Currently, options for better swimwear are expanding, and the choices we make today can contribute to shaping this moment in time and how history will judge it.
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