By I. Hansana, Jadetimes News
In his Johannesburg workshop, Sonwabile Ndamase takes pride in the Madiba shirts he designed for Nelson Mandela three decades ago, which have become a symbol of South Africa's first democratically elected leader. These loose fitting shirts, worn untucked and without a jacket, are popular among South African politicians even ten years after Mandela's death. The clan name "Madiba" is how Mandela is affectionately known in South Africa.
Ndamase's clientele includes current South African President Cyril Ramaphosa, former presidents Thabo Mbeki and Jacob Zuma, and other prominent figures in politics and business. Internationally, notable figures like former US President Bill Clinton and boxing legend Mike Tyson own Madiba shirts.
Ndamase recounts how Winnie Mandela contacted him shortly after Nelson Mandela's release from prison in 1990. Mandela, having spent 27 years incarcerated, needed new clothes for his role as a leader. Ndamase met Mandela in Soweto, where Mandela expressed his desire for a style that was both conservative enough to address industry leaders and casual enough to speak to the masses, without requiring a tie.
The self taught designer created the now iconic loose fitting, silk shirts with bold patterns that Mandela favored. These shirts, often featuring oriental patterns and deep colors like burgundy, dark grey, and royal blue, as well as nature inspired designs, became Mandela's signature look. Ndamase, who suffered a mild stroke in March 2024, is passing his skills to a new generation of garment makers.
This September, Ndamase will bring his expertise to New York, where he will host a masterclass for young designers and showcase his Vukani brand's new collection. This event, celebrating 30 years of South African democracy, will feature a documentary by a US filmmaker on Ndamase's career. The new collection will focus on casual, loungewear inspired designs, diverging from his traditional style.
Despite other designers claiming to have pioneered the Madiba shirt, Ndamase emphasizes that his relationship with Mandela was personal, not commercial. He remains dedicated to his craft in his Johannesburg workshop, viewing his work as a continuation of Mandela's legacy. A T shirt from his new range, emblazoned with "BE THE LEGACY" and featuring a silhouette of Nelson and Winnie Mandela walking free in 1990, encapsulates this enduring tribute.
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