By T. Jayani, JadeTimes News
Margaret Howell inaugurated her first Italian store during the Pitti trade show in Florence in January 2015. Nearly a decade later, she returned to mark the store's anniversary. "It’s very good to be back here after 10 years," remarked the 77-year-old designer, celebrating the store’s vibrant presence.
Howell’s followers appreciate the "well lived in" quality of her garments, a hallmark of her label founded in 1970. Her design principles, rooted in values predating the slow fashion and ethical consumption movements, epitomize these concepts. The Florence store, showcasing close up photographs of archive pieces crafted by partners like Carraro, Lardini, Tivoli, and Mantero, is located near Ponte alla Carraia in Piazza Carlo Goldoni. Caroline Attwood, the label’s CEO since November, noted a personal connection to the location, having lived in the same building during her tenure at LVMH.
Attwood emphasizes a thoughtful approach in her new role. A new website is set to launch in September, focusing on improving processes and infrastructure. "We’re ambitious behind the scenes but we’re not grabbing, and we’re not in a hurry," she explained, highlighting the brand’s steady growth approach.
The stability of Howell’s brand is bolstered by its ownership structure. Acquired by Japan’s Anglobal in 1990, the company now operates 82 stores in Japan, including Margaret Howell branded cafés, while design and business operations outside Japan are managed from London.
Raised in post war British countryside, Howell’s early experiences with nature and homemade clothing deeply influence her designs. Her education at Goldsmiths University honed her artistic eye, initially leading her to craft papier mâché jewellery featured in British Vogue. Transitioning to fashion, her early shirts for women, though now viewed critically by Howell, laid the groundwork for her enduring aesthetic.
Howell’s designs, often inspired by personal memories and a sense of androgyny, gained prominence through creative retailers like Joseph Ettedgui and Mary Wiggin. Despite the brand's understated nature, it has seen notable moments, such as Jack Nicholson's choice of a Howell jacket for "The Shining" and Princess Diana’s commission of a white tuxedo jacket.
Today, Howell's brand includes the mainline and MHL, a sub brand launched in 2004. Sales split 70-30 between womenswear and menswear, with a fluid customer base. Attwood hints at future storytelling opportunities to engage customers, while Howell sums up her approach succinctly: "I never felt I was ‘fashion’. It was just my style."