By D.W.G. Kalani Tharanga, JadeTimes News
Puerto Nariño, a serene town in Colombia, stands out as a model of sustainable living where motor vehicles are banned and the streets are remarkably clean, comparable to those in Copenhagen. This tranquil community contrasts sharply with its bustling neighbor, Leticia, a chaotic border town teeming with motorbikes, vendors, and market activity.
The journey to Puerto Nariño begins at the vibrant boat dock in Leticia. Amidst a flurry of market traders, tuk tuks, and water taxis, I purchased a ticket from a small office on the Malecón promenade. Navigating past wooden houses on stilts to the Amazon River's edge, I descended a slippery bank to board a motor launch. Assured by an attendant, I embarked on the two hour journey to Puerto Nariño, reveling in the uninterrupted views of the Amazon River.
A Unique Experiment in Indigenous Led Sustainability
Situated 75 km apart along the Amazon River, Leticia and Puerto Nariño represent two distinct lifestyles. Leticia is a bustling hub of activity, while Puerto Nariño epitomizes sustainable living. In this unique town, the absence of motor vehicles and pristine streets reflect a successful experiment in environmental stewardship, largely driven by Indigenous initiatives.
Accessible only by boat, Puerto Nariño offers a captivating voyage along the Amazon, with Colombia on one side and Peru on the other. Arriving at the community’s modest boat dock, located at the confluence of the Amazon and Loretoyaco rivers, it quickly became clear that Puerto Nariño is a distinctive outpost within the jungle. Here, amidst the lush Amazonian landscape, the town's commitment to sustainability and Indigenous leadership provides an inspiring example of positive environmental practices.
Known as "the natural cradle of Colombia," Puerto Nariño exemplifies a community harmoniously coexisting with nature. In 2012, it became the first town in Colombia to be certified as a "sustainable tourist destination" by the Ministry of Commerce, Industry, and Tourism. Surrounded by endangered rainforest, this town attracts visitors eager to explore the heart of the planet's "lungs."
Recent news from the Colombian Amazon has been mixed, with a reported 70% decrease in deforestation in 2023, yet also a record breaking drought affecting wildlife and harvests. Despite these challenges, Puerto Nariño presents a promising picture. Neat terracotta walkways, lined with trees and bushes, spread out from the riverbank. The town's wooden houses, adorned with murals and handicrafts, reflect a strong Indigenous presence, with 80% of the 6,000 residents belonging to the Ticuna, Cocama, and Yagua ethnic groups.
Puerto Nariño is distinct from other Colombian cities due to its ban on cars and motorbikes. The town has no roads and only two registered vehicles: a tractor for rubbish collection and an ambulance for emergencies. Shiny litter bins at every corner, coupled with birdsong, contribute to an atmosphere of peace and order. Visitors pay a COP$15,000 (£3) entry tax, which supports town maintenance.
The town was founded in 1961, drawing its population from Indigenous groups who had lived in the region for centuries. By the 1980s and '90s, Puerto Nariño began attracting tourists. Sustainable tourism initiatives gained momentum in the early 2000s under Mayor Edilberto Suárez Pinto, leading to the beautification of the urban area and the strengthening of tourism in Indigenous communities. In 2007, the town was proposed as a pilot model for sustainable tourism.
Today, Puerto Nariño features five environmental programs focused on water, energy, solid waste management, pollution control, and flora and fauna conservation. Residents and visitors benefit from practices like showering with recycled rainwater and enjoying litter free streets. Sustainable agriculture, practiced by the Indigenous people since pre Columbian times, remains vital. Local families grow food on chagras (small plots cleared and planted during the dry season) and sell surplus produce at the daily waterfront market. This local produce, including cassava, chillies, onions, squash, bananas, papayas, and mangos, supplies the town’s restaurants and hotels, including the upscale Waira Selva.
Sustainable Fisheries and Ecotourism in Puerto Nariño
In Puerto Nariño, Amazon fish play a crucial role in the local diet, with 68 species, including catfish, piranhas, and the massive pirarucu, serving as the primary protein source. Local fishers, who double as environmental stewards, collaborate with Natütama, a foundation established in 2005. Natütama operates an interpretation center in the town, staffed by Indigenous guides, to monitor and conserve wildlife. In 2023, these fishers recorded sightings of 1,044 pink dolphins and 134 endangered manatees, with more detailed surveys planned for 2024. These conservation efforts are vital not only for preserving biodiversity but also for bolstering ecotourism, a significant economic driver in the region.
Wildlife trips, a mainstay of the local economy, can be organized with Indigenous guides who navigate small wooden motorboats, called peque peques, through Lake Tarapoto. This lake, nominated as a Ramsar wetlands site in 2018, is a hotspot for spotting pink dolphins, sloths, and turtles. The thriving ecotourism industry, centered around these wildlife experiences, highlights the importance of conservation both for environmental and economic sustainability.
Education and Cultural Preservation
Natütama's work extends beyond wildlife monitoring to include environmental education and cultural preservation. The foundation's staff educates children about Amazonian ecology and conducts environmental workshops in local schools and Indigenous communities. Marelvi Laureano, an education coordinator for Natütama, emphasized the importance of intergenerational learning, particularly the role of grandparents in passing down cultural knowledge that fosters community respect and environmental stewardship.
The interpretation center in Puerto Nariño serves as an educational and environmental hub, featuring exhibits that illustrate the region's wet and dry seasons. Visitors learn about local lakes, jungle ecosystems, and how to identify various plants, fish, and aquatic animals. These educational efforts help visitors and residents alike understand and appreciate the intricate natural cycles and biodiversity of the Amazon, reinforcing the community's commitment to sustainable living and environmental conservation.