Iruni Kalupahana JadeTimes Staff
I. Kalupahana is a Jadetimes news reporter covering Fashion
The Birth of Denim
Denim is often spoken of as a fabric of modern fashion, but it actually originated in 17th century France. While there is some disagreement on who truly originated denim, many historians feel it was named after the city of Nimes, southern France, where this type of twill textile was de rigueur and eventually came to be called Serge de Nimes. This was made of a twill weave of indigo dyed warp threads combined with natural white weft threads. It had a blue colored side and was white on the other. From workwear to the fashion icon, denim entered into the scene with the invention of synthetic indigo dye during the late 19th century. In 1883, a German chemist by the name Adolf von Baeyer synthesized indigo, ensuring mass production of the dye and consistency in the color. Indigo dye was really scarce and very expensive before the innovation, hence, denim was a luxury. Synthetic dye made denim more accessible and affordable, setting the stage for its wide adoption.
Denim in American Culture
The rise of denim prominence in American culture took place in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. First used by workers including cowboys and miners because of its durability, denim attained mainstream understanding in the 1950s. Denim jeans first burst onto the scene as an icon of youth rebellion and nonconformity in films such as "Rebel Without a Cause" with James Dean and "The Wild One" with Marlon Brando. In the 1960s, it came to be equated with counterculture and political protest especially among college students against the Vietnam War. Denim became a fashion item by the 1980s, with designers like Calvin Klein and Armani beginning to create their premium lines. It is also the era when the strong promotion of designer jeans began, at the forefront of which was Adriano Goldschmied with the skinny fit that would soon be a sensation in fashion.
Denim and Sustainability
Over the last few years, sustainability has become a buzzword in denim manufacturing. Traditional denim manufacturing is a water intensive process a single pair of jeans requires 5,700 liters of water. In response, the industry has raced to play catch up with greener processes. For example, Wrangler's Icon collection includes 20% recycled denim, while Jack & Jones has re released its line of low impact denim. Recently, fast fashion brands like Primark have even introduced jeans with 100 percent sustainable cotton. Scary problems are still to be faced, such as water pollution and the environmental impact of sandblasting in order to give jeans that worn look. The 2016 film "River Blue" documented horrific water pollution due to the fashion textile industry in Asia, and told viewers more needed to be done to clean up.
The Versatility of Denim
Denim's versatility goes a long way from just simple attire. What was invented for workwear became used in many different forms. It has been used in accessories, including hats, belts, and handbags. It has even shown up on furniture, such as bean bag chairs and upholstery. In 1973, AMC partnered with Levi's to generate denim for car seats. Denim also features in home decors, such as lamp shades and rugs, all made from the fabric. It is this adaptability, added to innovations in denim technologies that keep it going strong. As the industry evolves, denim stays constant as the base fabric, stitching tradition with modern style and sustainable awareness.
