By D. W. G. Kalani Tharanga, JadeTimes News
The Birthplace of the Hot Dog, Coney Island
As Americans gear up for Fourth of July celebrations, it's a fitting time to delve into the origins of one of the nation's beloved foods, the hot dog. The quintessential American food, these bunned frankfurters are a staple at baseball games, backyard barbecues, and roadside convenience stores nationwide. The hot dog’s story began in the 1860s, as the United States was healing from the Civil War and shaping its new identity. Despite its widespread presence today, the hot dog's iconic home remains the boardwalk of Coney Island in New York City.
On a sweltering summer day, seeking respite from Manhattan’s heat, I ventured to Coney Island. This Brooklyn amusement park, with its wooden boardwalk and golden sands, has been a haven for New Yorkers for over a century. Among the bustling attractions and food joints, the legendary Nathan’s Famous stands out. Established in 1916, Nathan’s proudly claims to be the original purveyor of world famous frankfurters.
However, just a few blocks away, another establishment, Feltman’s of Coney Island, declares itself as the true originator of the hot dog, dating back to 1867. According to Coney Island historian Michael Quinn, a German immigrant named Charles L. Feltman was serving hot dogs along the boardwalk decades before Nathan’s emerged. Feltman, who arrived in the US in 1856, initially ran a Brooklyn bakery and later started selling pies and clams from a pushcart on Coney Island. Responding to customer demand for hot food, Feltman innovated by creating a cart with a charcoal brazier and a bread warmer, leading to the sale of nearly 4,000 "Coney Island red hots" in his signature bun that summer.
Feltman’s hot dog, a convenient beachside version of the German frankfurter, quickly gained popularity. By 1871, he opened Feltman's Ocean Pavilion, and over the years, his enterprise grew into a vast amusement complex. Despite Feltman's success, Nathan Handwerker, a former employee, launched his own hot dog stand in 1916, undercutting Feltman's prices and ultimately becoming the dominant name on the Coney Island boardwalk after Feltman’s closed in 1954.
The Modern Revival and Legacy of Feltman’s and Nathan’s
Decades after Feltman’s closure, Michael Quinn, driven by his grandfather’s stories of Feltman’s superior quality, resurrected the brand. With the original spice blend recipe, Quinn reopened Feltman’s in 2015, initially operating from a takeout window in the East Village before reestablishing it in Coney Island in 2017. Today, Feltman’s hot dogs, made from premium beef and spices, are celebrated for their taste, even earning a spot among the top ten hot dogs in the US by The Daily Meal.
Feltman’s success continued despite the challenges posed by the COVID 19 pandemic, with sales soaring as people turned to supermarkets and online shopping. Meanwhile, Nathan’s has built an international empire, selling products in over 55,000 locations across more than 10 countries. The annual Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest, held every Fourth of July, is a televised event, highlighting the brand’s enduring popularity.
While Nathan’s is synonymous with hot dogs today, some, including competitive eater Takeru Kobayashi, prefer the taste of Feltman’s franks. For those looking to experience both, Feltman’s can be found in select supermarkets and online, while Nathan’s is available globally. This Fourth of July, whether you’re at a backyard barbecue or watching a hot dog eating contest, you can appreciate the rich history and evolution of this iconic American food.
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