By D. W. G. Kalani Tharanga, JadeTimes News
Frilly, hyper feminine, and adorned with bows, the coquette style is gaining popularity. This aesthetic has permeated various aspects of life in 2024, from makeup and pets to office and gym fashion. It seems as though Gen Z and younger millennials have found a way to embody the visual essence of Sofia Coppola films, reminiscent of the pastels, lace, and A line silhouettes of 2006's Marie Antoinette to the stockings, Mary Janes, and Peter Pan collars of 2023's Priscilla. Musicians like Sabrina Carpenter and Chappell Roan are confidently embracing pearls, lace, and corseted tops, while celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker, Sydney Sweeney, and Cardi B subtly nod to the aesthetic with simple bows.
The Essence and Evolution of Coquette
Defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as "a woman who trifles with men's affections" or "a woman given to flirting or coquetry," the coquette movement, according to influencer and stylist Maree Ellard, is more of a reclamation of femininity, particularly resonant with Gen Z. This trend separates itself from its literal definition, focusing instead on a nostalgic view of girlhood and youth before societal complexities took over.
Ellard explains that coquette is a form of empowerment against the sexualization of female bodies. "It's about dressing for oneself, not necessarily covering every inch but reclaiming femininity," she says. While proponents view coquette as a triumph over the male gaze, critics argue it lacks inclusivity and harbors undertones of infantilization and docility.
Controversies and Criticisms
Despite its appeal, the coquette trend is not without controversy. Critics point out that it often excludes diverse body types and tends to favor a thin, cisgendered female whiteness. Professor Meredith Jones of Brunel University London highlights the disparity, noting that a trend which appears "cute" on a thin, white young woman can become controversial and radical when adopted by someone outside that demographic.
Additionally, the aesthetic's association with certain harmful online communities has raised concerns. Influencers like TikToker Addy Harajuku and Blair have expressed worries about the trend’s potential links to disordered eating communities. They recall the dark side of Tumblr, where the romanticized coquette style often intersected with harmful "thinspiration" content. This historical baggage complicates the trend, suggesting that while many embrace it for its whimsical and nostalgic elements, it can also carry darker implications.
Despite the criticisms, many argue that coquette is a powerful form of self expression. It harkens back to an era where ultra girly, ultra feminine modes were prevalent, allowing women to present themselves in ways that felt authentic to them. The aesthetic's simplicity and adaptability contribute to its popularity and longevity. According to Ellard, true coquette has no strict rules, specific brands, or price points. It molds to whatever the wearer likes and has access to, making it accessible and versatile.
Historical and Cultural Roots
The coquette style is not new. It draws inspiration from various historical and cultural sources, from Rococo fashion to Victorian chokers. Jean Honoré Fragonard's The Swing (1767) is an early example, depicting a woman in pastels, lace, and bows, embodying the coquette spirit. This enduring aesthetic has been adapted over the centuries, re emerging in different forms and contexts. Designers like John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, and contemporary brands such as Sandy Liang, Miu Miu, and Selkie have all embraced coquette elements. These designers showcase how the aesthetic can be both nostalgic and innovative, blending past influences with modern sensibilities.
The coquette trend is not just a fleeting fad; it represents a broader cultural adaptation. Shows like Bridgerton and Euphoria have influenced its trajectory, and Ellard believes the trend has the potential to evolve further, possibly even taking a sci fi turn. This adaptability ensures that coquette will remain relevant, continuing to offer a sense of belonging and self expression to its community.
Ultimately, coquette sits at a unique intersection of aesthetic first trends and community driven movements. While it doesn't have the political origins of punk or hippie subcultures, it fosters a sense of belonging through shared interests and activities. As Ellard notes, coquette may not come with built in values, but it brings people together through its embrace of femininity, nostalgia, and playful experimentation.
