By I. Hansana, Jadetimes News
Thom Browne's Fall 2024 Couture Show A Theatrical Sporting Extravaganza
Thom Browne’s fall 2024 couture show, held at the prestigious Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, opened with a dramatic spectacle true to his theatrical style. Men engaged in a staged tug of war, reflecting the upcoming Olympic Games and setting the tone for a collection that melded sports, old world couture, and camp.
Drawing inspiration from antiquity and American myths, models struck poses reminiscent of athletes throughout history, such as archers, disc throwers, and weightlifters. This playful approach deconstructed traditional gender roles and classical tailoring. The designs featured exaggerated shoulder lines and tiny waists, evoking vintage sports iconography. Tennis skirts, heel less track boots, and laurel wreath headdresses were playful nods to sports, while hand painted swimming briefs and beaded ‘tricolore’ lapels on jackets and overcoats paid homage to France.
Browne, who launched his label in 2001 in New York’s West Village, has received multiple accolades, including the CFDA Menswear Designer Award in 2006, 2012, and 2016. His collections are highly coveted by celebrities, collectors, and museums. Thom Browne, now 90% owned by the Zegna group since 2018, has expanded into a successful ready to wear business available in over 300 department stores and boutiques across 40 countries, along with 110 Thom Browne retail stores. “I have a very successful commercial side of my business,” Browne told CNN backstage, explaining that couture “balances the other side of what I do.”
Browne's show highlighted traditional couture techniques through entertaining storytelling. He emphasized, “I like to entertain and to ground it in beautifully made clothes.” Interestingly, the collection featured muslin a simple, lightweight cotton typically used for initial mock up sintegrated into finished pieces. As noted in the show’s program, “The toile as the source text. The toile as the finale garment. The work in progress becomes the final work,Couture.”
Using exposed stitching and ancient techniques like hand basting, Browne aimed to experiment with tailoring and proportions. Celebrity stylist Jared Ellner, who dressed influencer Emma Chamberlain and actor Molly Gordon for the show, praised Browne’s distinctive style, “It’s so easily and instantly recognizable, yet pushes barriers aesthetically. Never making everyone look the same but allowing each person to add their own style to it.(Sabrina and Emma) like to dress up like a character.really pushing their own individuality.” In an era where subtle details are often lost on camera, Thom Browne’s approach may represent the ultimate luxury, blending individuality with high fashion.