By C. Perera, JadeTimes News
“Today we’re going to look for the ‘Big Five!’” announces South African guide Eelco Meyjes from the front of his safari vehicle a surprising statement to hear in the suburban streets of Johannesburg. Meyjes isn’t referring to actual wildlife, but rather to the vibrant depictions of animals found in the city’s graffiti.
Despite Johannesburg's reputation for high crime rates and security measures like high walls and electric fences, there are many aspects to this bustling commercial hub, including the captivating street art adorning its walls. Meyjes, a local entrepreneur and University of the Witwatersrand art graduate, has a deep appreciation for the city’s dynamic street art.
His first tours were conducted on bicycles, but in 2021, he expanded into urban safaris using a vehicle. As we set off from a local restaurant in our green safari vehicle, he jovially warns, “You’ll have to look carefully to find the animals painted on the walls. It’s more challenging than a bush tour there’s traffic everywhere and potholes to avoid!”
Our first stop reveals a wild looking pink buffalo smoking what appears to be a cigarette or joint. This is our first sighting of the "Big Five," a term originally coined by 19th century big game hunters to refer to elephants, rhinos, buffaloes, lions, and leopards
We continue our journey through the cool autumn air of Johannesburg. The suburban gardens remain green, and the abundance of graffiti might go unnoticed by the casual observer. Among the colorful murals, we spot a pink elephant, another member of the Big Five, alongside a robot and a giant lizard in red sneakers. We also see a wall commemorating deceased graffiti artists.
Heading downtown, we meet "Gazer," a graffiti artist with eight years of experience. He recounts how he started skateboarding and was introduced to graffiti by a friend. Although most of his work is commissioned, some pieces are created spontaneously, often safer to paint during the day but sometimes requiring nighttime excursions. Gazer emphasizes that his art is about individual expression rather than public approval.
Another artist, “Slegh” or “Krinky Winky,” addresses the perception of graffiti as destructive. He argues that applying a millimeter of paint to a wall is far less damaging than the presence of billboards and corporate signs, suggesting that graffiti brings communities together and highlights political issues.
We also meet “Dbongz” Mahlathi, a renowned street artist from a township west of Johannesburg. Once an introverted teenager who turned to illegal graffiti as a form of expression, he now creates celebrated murals, including a prominent depiction of jazz artist and anti apartheid activist Miriam Makeba.
Melissa Calucci, convener of the International Public Art Festival in Cape Town, describes Johannesburg as a "mecca for graffiti." She notes that the city’s welcoming attitude toward graffiti has allowed the culture to thrive and reach a high level of artistry, with some local artists gaining international recognition.
As we navigate a narrow alley, Meyjes explains that this is where graffiti artists practice and support one another, fostering a sense of brotherhood. The tour concludes with a visit to a set of remarkable panels painted on a downtown building. Meyjes believes such work rejuvenates the area and envisions Johannesburg becoming the world’s largest graffiti park.
As we return, he remarks on the growing influence of graffiti, noting its appeal to corporates and architects looking to enliven their buildings. “We want to turn Joburg into the biggest graffiti park in the world,” he says, reflecting on the city's evolving artistic landscape.
